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Fashioning Spain: From Mantillas to Rosalía

Editat de Francisco Fernández de Alba, Marcela T. Garcés
en Limba Engleză Paperback – 29 dec 2022
Fashioning Spain is a cultural history of Spanish fashion in the 20th and 21st centuries, a period of significant social, political, and economic upheaval. As Spain moved from dictatorship to democracy and, most recently, to the digital age, fashion has experienced seismic shifts. The chapters in this collection reveal how women empowered themselves through fashion choices, detail Balenciaga's international stardom, present female photographers challenging gender roles under Franco's rule, and uncover the politicization of the mantilla. In the visual culture of Spanish fashion, tradition and modernity coexist and compete, reflecting society's changing affects.

Using a range of case studies and approaches, this collection explores fashion in films, comics from la Movida, Rosalía's music videos, and both brick-and-mortar and virtual museums. It demonstrates that fashion is ripe with historical meaning, and offers unique insights into the many facets of Spanish cultural life.
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Specificații

ISBN-13: 9781350244580
ISBN-10: 1350244589
Pagini: 240
Ilustrații: 33 bw illus
Dimensiuni: 232 x 154 x 14 mm
Greutate: 0.36 kg
Editura: Bloomsbury Publishing
Colecția Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Locul publicării:London, United Kingdom

Cuprins

List of Illustrations
Foreword
Acknowledgements
Note on Translations

Introduction
"Fashion in Spain: Catalyst for Affect and Identity."
Francisco Fernández de Alba (Wheaton College, MA) and Marcela T. Garcés (Siena College)

Part I: Identity: Politics and Futures
Chapter 1: "Accessorizing the Nation: Mantillas, Cultural Identity, and Modern Spain." Inés Corujo-Martín (Bryn Mawr College)
Chapter 2: "Bodies of the Future: Comics, Fashion, and 1980s Movida." Alberto Villamandos (University of Missouri, Kansas City)

Part II: Picturing Femininity: Film and Photography
Chapter 3: "Women, Fashion, and the Spanish Civil War: From the Fashion Parade to the Victory Parade." Kathleen Vernon (SUNY, Stony Brook)
Chapter 4: "From Market to Feminism: Fashion Photography during the Franco Dictatorship." Olga Sendra Ferrer (Wesleyan University)

Part III: Designing Fashion Stars: Film and Music
Chapter 5: "Fashioning Spanish Film Stars: Balenciaga and Conchita Montenegro." Jorge Pérez (University of Texas, Austin)
Chapter 6: "Rosalía, Fashion, and the Rise of Poligonera Chic." Mary Kate Donovan (Skidmore College)

Part IV: Museums: From Closets to the Cloud
Chapter 7: "The Museo del Traje's research on Spanish Prêt-à-Porter." Juan Gutiérrez (Curator, Museo del Traje, CEPI)
Chapter 8: "Curating Catalan Cultural Identity through Dress in the Virtual Fashion Museum of Catalonia." Nicholas Wolters (Wake Forest University)

Index

Recenzii

The great merit of this edited volume is its inclusion of a diverse range of approaches that enrich the subject. It pioneers the study of current Spanish fashion and lays the foundations to move forward. Therefore, Fashioning Spain: From Mantillas to Rosalía is recommended reading for all scholars of Spanish fashion.
Fashioning Spain makes us aware not just of the many things that fashion can tell us about cultural values, from the eighteenth century to the present, but also of the major contribution that Spain has made to fashion design and entrepreneurship. The illustrations tell a story of their own."
An indispensable collection for Spanish cultural studies. Demonstrating that fashion analysis serves to illuminate intersecting political, economic and social processes, the contributors position twentieth-century fashion as a crucial interface for studies of modern Spanish memory, nation, affect and materiality.
The volume offers fascinating insights into the relationship of fashion and cultural identity in modern Spain, exploring the intersections of gender, sexuality, class and nationalism. It constitutes a solid critical contribution to an important, but relatively neglected area of Spanish cultural studies, which will be a fundamental reference for any future studies in this field.