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Understanding Fashion Scandals: Social Media, Identity, and Globalization

Autor Professor Annamari Vänskä, Dr Olga Gurova
en Limba Engleză Hardback – 25 ian 2024
All publicity is good publicity? Perhaps not. In recent years, multiple local and global fashion brands have been called out for cultural appropriation, racism, misogyny, and even flirting with fascism.

Understanding Fashion Scandals is the first book to explore this changing landscape of contemporary fashion through case studies showing how 'shock value' lost its currency. The book focuses on the changes since the late-1970s and early 1980s, when brands like Calvin Klein and Benetton first used controversy as a promotional tool to build their brand identity, to the contemporary industry where avoiding social media backlash is critical to survival.

Analyzing the tactics brands including Burberry, Dior, Dolce & Gabbana and Prada adopt to avoid or mitigate scandals, Vänskä and Gurova map the fashion industry's journey towards cultural sustainability.
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Specificații

ISBN-13: 9781350248960
ISBN-10: 1350248967
Pagini: 248
Ilustrații: 23 bw illus
Dimensiuni: 162 x 238 x 4 mm
Greutate: 0.66 kg
Editura: Bloomsbury Publishing
Colecția Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Locul publicării:London, United Kingdom

Cuprins

Introduction
The Two Types of Fashion Scandals
Scandal as Politicization of Fashion
Decolonizing Fashion
Positioning Ourselves
Epistemic Positionings
Structure of the Book

PART ONE THE FASHION SCANDAL-PAST AND PRESENT
1. Framing the Fashion Scandal: The Platformization of Fashion
Visualization of Fashion
Mediatization of Fashion
Social Media and the Platformization of Fashion
The Instagramification of Fashion

2. Fashion Brands Negotiating Identity Politics
Cultural Approach to Brands and Branding
Negotiating Identity Politics

3. Changing Strategies of Fashion Brands: From Shock to Scandal
A Short History of the Fashion Scandal: Deliberate Shock
Contemporary Shock: The Unintentional Scandal
Social Media and New Identity Politics
Dismantling White Privilege and Introducing Intersectionality to Fashion

4. Emotional Effects of Social Media on Fashion: Calling-out and Canceling
Emotional Branding
Emotional Reactions and Canceling
New Cultural Intermediaries and the Creation of the Unintentional Scandal
Consumers Empowered to Speak Up
What if a Brand is Canceled?

PART TWO CASE STUDIES
5. Russia
Love is (Not Just) Love
Feminist Resistance in a Conservative World
Race Across Time and Space

6. Finland
Maternity Clothes for 12-Year-Old African Girls
Flirting with Fascists

7. Global Scandals
Whose Identity? The Problem with "Cultural Appropriation"
Casual Racism: "Eating with Chopsticks"
Blackface and Structural Racism in the Fashion Industry
"Mental Health is not Fashion"

PART THREE THE RESPONSE TO FASHION SCANDALS
8. Just Don't Do It!
Corporate World Response, Part One: Corporate Social Responsibility
Corporate World Response, Part Two: Brands as Political Actors
Corporate World Response, Part Three: Diversity Officers
Academic Response, Part One: The Danger of "Diversity Washing"
Academic Response, Part Two: the "Glossification of Diversity"
Academic Response, Part Three: Reimagining the Fashion Curriculum
Political Response, Part One: Supply Chains and Human Rights
Political Response, Part Two: Advocacy Groups Benchmarking
Business
Conclusion: A Call for Cultural and Social Sustainability

PART FOUR EPILOG
9. The Counter Narrative
Heidi Karjalainen, Finland
Ervin Latimer, Finland
Jahnkoy, USA
Claudia Lepik, Estonia
Muslin Brothers, Belgium
Kristian David, Sweden

Bibliography
Index

Recenzii

This is a fresh, updated and comprehensive book on the phenomenon of fashion scandals, which has gained media and consumer attention in recent years. The reader will find both rich case studies and an analysis of how fashion scandals deal with broader processes such as mediatization and cultural appropriation.
A thought-provoking read looking at an important dynamic within the contemporary fashion and advertising worlds. The authors not only interrogate a variety of scandals, but offer an important framework for understanding contemporary fashion communication.
This is a smart, rich and engaging analysis of fashion scandals as engines of media attention and as sites of everyday politics. Recommended reading for everyone interested in how fashion matters in the making of identities, cross-cultural connections and sustainable futures.
A timely and original introduction to the complex politics of the "fashion scandal," investigated as a brand strategy in the age of global communication and social media.