Time in Fashion: Industrial, Antilinear and Uchronic Temporalities

Editat de Caroline Evans, Alessandra Vaccari
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en Limba Engleză Paperback – 06 Aug 2020
Few phenomena embody the notion of time as well as fashion. Fast-moving and rooted in the 'now', it's constantly creating its own past through the process of rapid style change. Uniquely poised between the past and the future, fashion's relationship with time is unorthodox. Rather than considering time in the conventional sense, this anthology explores three alternative ways to think about fashion and time: the first identifies the seasonal nature of fashion as an industry, and shows how this has impacted on workers and wearers alike. The second looks at fashion design as a ceaseless process of adaptation, reconstruction and recombination of motifs, in which nostalgia and revivals play their part. The third construes fashion's 'imaginary', with its capacity for fantasy and myth-making, as a form of alternate history that asks 'what if?'Within this framework, key classic texts are juxtaposed with lesser known ones, in an interdisciplinary approach that includes philosophy, history, literature, media and fashion design, ranging from the 18th century to the present. It will be of interest to anyone wishing to understand one of the most complex yet inescapable aspects of fashion, its relationship to time, and will be a critical resource for undergraduate and postgraduate students in the humanities and all those interested in fashion in all its creative, commercial and cultural aspects.
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ISBN-13: 9781350146938
ISBN-10: 1350146935
Pagini: 200
Ilustrații: 5 bw illus
Dimensiuni: 156 x 234 x 40 mm
Greutate: 0 kg
Editura: Bloomsbury Publishing
Colecția Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Locul publicării: London, United Kingdom


Incorporates fashion as an industry, as endless quotation and as fantasy-maker, and appeals to students from varied disciplines: fashion, philosophy, history, literature and media studies

Notă biografică

Caroline Evans is Professor Emerita of Fashion History and Theory at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London, UK.Alessandra Vaccari is Associate Professor of Fashion History and Theory at Università Iuav di Venezia, Italy.


List of FiguresAcknowledgementsTime in Fashion: An Introductory Essay - Caroline Evans and Alessandra VaccariSection I: Industrial Time1. The Murderous, Meaningless Caprices of Fashion - Karl Marx2. The Acceleration of Fashion Change in the 18th Century - Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell3. The Temporal Architecture of Fashion: Its Seasons and Weeks - Aurélie van de Peer4. Threadbare Dandy Fashion - Jules Barbey-d'Aurevilly5. The Pace of Fashion - Georg Simmel6. My Best Work is Done Only When I am Under Pressure - Mary Quant7. We're Stuck Between the Old and the New Rhythm - Christophe Lemaire8. New Fashion Media and the Acceleration of Fashion Time - Agnès Rocamora9. Standard Minute Value (SMV) for a T-Shirt - Ramij Howlader, Monirul Islam (Rajib), Tanjibul Hasan Sajib, Ripon Kumar Prasad10. Fashion, Fast and Slow - Kate Fletcher11. Subverting the Seasonal Construct - Samuel Patrick ThomasSection II: Antilinear Time12. Jetztzeit and the Tiger's Leap - Walter Benjamin13. Illusion Tulle and La Dernière Mode - Stéphane Mallarmé14. The Evaporation of Temporality - Ulrich Lehmann15. Fashion, Femininity and Modernity - Ilya Parkins16. The Residue that History has Discharged - Siegfried Kracauer17. Colonial Time - Victoria L. Rovine18. The Historical Mode - Richard Martin and Harold Koda19. Cuttings and Pastings in the Archive - Alistair O'Neill20. Martin Magiela's Carnivalized Time - Francesca Granata21. Quotations: The Past and Future of Fashion - Angelo Flaccavento22. Vintage Fashion and Memory - Heike JenssSection III: Uchronic Time23. Fashion, A Time Which Does Not Exist - Roland Barthes24. Sovereign Time - Patrizia Calefato25. The Art of the Perfect Moment - Barbara Vinken26. Fashion is Now and Tomorrow - Karl Lagerfeld27. Made in Italy and Double Vintage - Simona Segre Reinach28. Final Adjudication on Two National Press Advertisements for Louis Vuitton - Advertising Standards Authority 29. I Have Seen Her in the Mirror - Elsa Schiaparelli30. Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada: Impossible Conversations - Miuccia Prada31. Doppie Pagine - Anna Piaggi32. The Otherworldly - Greg French33. Fashion Fabulation: Serpica Naro at Milan Fashion Week 2005 - Ilaria Vanni34. Queer Time - Emma Katherine Atwood35. Miss Haversham - Charles Dickens36. The Simultaneous Dress - Paola ColaiacomoBibliography Index


Evans and Vaccari's commitment to brevity and specificity is this greatest asset. Time In Fashion includes so many angles and writers and perspectives that any reader, whether seasoned in the field or not, will come away with myriad more questions about the field of dress history. This book will have given them multiple starting points from which to begin their inquiries and will serve any reader as a useful catalyst for their curiosity.
An astute and generous contribution to the field, this thoughtful and highly readable collection promises to generate much exciting work around fashion's chronologies in the years to come.
A fascinating anthology that will inspire both fashion creatives and fashion scholars.
In this ground-breaking study, Evans and Vaccari open a new era in our understanding of the subject with a forensic analysis of its complexities in their introduction, backed up by a dazzling range of essays and extracts from past and contemporary writers.
Offering invaluable insights into fashion's complex relationship to time, the diversity and quality of the contributions make this anthology a gratifying read and an essential reference for anyone seeking deeper understanding of fashion.