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Queer Style: Revised and Updated Edition

Autor Adam Geczy, Vicki Karaminas
en Limba Engleză Paperback – 13 iun 2024
First published in 2013, Queer Style was ahead of its time. It was the first book to address the cultural, political, and material histories of clothes as signs and markers of gender and sexual identity, and remains key reading for scholars and students across fashion studies and the humanities more broadly. Now, 10 years later, the authors have revisited their classic work and updated it to examine the function of subcultural dress within queer communities and the mannerisms and messages that are used as signifiers of identity.
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Specificații

ISBN-13: 9781350365926
ISBN-10: 1350365920
Pagini: 320
Ilustrații: 81 bw illus
Dimensiuni: 156 x 232 x 22 mm
Greutate: 0.74 kg
Ediția:2Revizuită
Editura: Bloomsbury Publishing
Colecția Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Locul publicării:London, United Kingdom

Cuprins

List of Illustrations
Acknowledgements

Introduction

1. The Meaning of Style Between Classic and Queer
Winckelmann and the Suppressed Homoerotism in Modernist style
A Selective History of Non-queer, Standard, Straight and Classic dressing

2.. Lesbian Style: From Mannish Women to Lipstick Dykes
Mannish Lesbians and Salon Dandies
Lesbian Bar Culture of the Forties and Fifties
Feminist Androgyny and Anti Style
Cross Dressing and Androgynous Style
Designer Dykes and Lesbian Chic
Lesbian Visibility in the Twentieth Century

3. Designer Dykes and Lesbian Visibility
The L Word and Generation Q
Lesbian Chic
The Pleasures of Looking. Lesbians in film and media
Hip Hop Lesbian Style

4. Early Modern Gay Men's Styles
Macaroni's and Fops
Dandies and Aesthetes. The Early Days of Queer Style
Wilde, Posing, and the 'Birth' of Homosexuality
Paris Dandies, Aesthetes and Decadents

5. Modern and Contemporary Gay Men's Styles
The Years Pending World War II
Artistic Bent. Warhol, Glam and Pop
Gay Activism and Gay pride
Contemporary Queer: Hard to Say

6. Kiss of the Whip. Bondage, Discipline and Sado-Masochism, or BDSM Style
Military Uniforms and the Gestapo
Clips, Clamps Leather, and Accessories
The Mainstreaming of BDSM

7. Drag Kings and Queens
Dames and Queens
Drag and Artistic Practice
Drag as Politics
Drag Balls
Kinging and Club Culture
RuPaul Supermodel

8. Trans* and Fluid Style
By Way of a Geneology
Against Categorization
Transgender Celebrity
Fluid Fashion and Style

9. Crossing Genders, Crossing Cultures
Japanese Dandy Style
Albanian Sworn Virgins
The Hijra: An Alternative Gender Role in India
Fa'fafine and Polynesian Gender Crossing
Two Spirit First Nation
Kathoey and Tom Boys of Thailand

Conclusion: Against Justification

Bibliography
Index

Recenzii

Queer Style has established itself as the ultimate reader for understanding the LGBTQIA community: there is no better text! While not forgetting historical context, it allows us to understand how fashion has played a key role for all of us - regardless of ethnicity, race and age.
Like queer style itself, Geczy and Karaminas' analysis is world-shaping, nuanced and alive. Their revised edition shows us that queer style is as political as ever, moving from a countercultural force to eradicating mainstream white cis-hetero dominance and the binaries that uphold it. Required reading for every student, educator and scholar who is part of the movement to orient fashion studies in social justice.
Moving from Brummell and Biggie to Winckelmann and Warhol, Queer Style is equal parts historical analysis and manifesto for the politics that have underpinned queer dressing since the 18th century. This revised volume is as important a resource for researchers and students today as when it was first published in 2013.

Caracteristici

Looks at a diverse range of dress including the effeminate 'pansy', the masculine macho 'clone', the 'lipstick' and 'butch' lesbian styles and extreme styles of drag kings and queens

Notă biografică

Adam Geczy is an artist and writer. He is Senior Lecturer at Sydney College of the Arts, Australia, and author of several books including (with Michael Carter) Reframing Art (Berg, 2005) and Art: Histories, Theories and Exceptions (Berg, 2008), a Choice Outstanding Academic Title, 2009.Vicki Karaminas is Associate Professor of Fashion Studies and Associate Head of the School of Design at the University of Technology, Sydney, Australia. She is the Executive Director and Chair of Fashion for the Popular Culture Association of Australia and New Zealand and the Chair for Subcultural Style and Identity for the Popular Culture and American Culture Associations. She is the editor of The Men's Fashion Reader (Berg, 2009), Fashion in Fiction (Berg, 2009) and The Australasian Journal of Popular Culture.