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In the Charcuterie: The Fatted Calf's Guide to Making Sausage, Salumi, Pates, Roasts, Confits, and Other Meaty Goods

Autor Taylor Boetticher, Toponia Miller Fotografii de Alexander Farnum
en Limba Engleză Hardback – 17 sep 2013

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A definitive resource for the modern meat lover, with 125 recipes and fully-illustrated step-by-step instructions for making brined, smoked, cured, skewered, braised, rolled, tied, and stuffed meats at home; plus a guide to sourcing, butchering, and cooking with the finest cuts.

The tradition of preserving meats is one of the oldest of all the food arts. Nevertheless, the craft charcuterie movement has captured the modern imagination, with scores of charcuteries opening across the country in recent years, and none is so well-loved and highly regarded as the San Francisco Bay Area’s Fatted Calf.

In this much-anticipated debut cookbook, Fatted Calf co-owners and founders Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller present an unprecedented array of meaty goods, with recipes for salumi, pâtés, roasts, sausages, confits, and everything in between. A must-have for the meat-loving home cook, DIY-types in search of a new pantry project, and professionals looking to broaden their repertoire, In the Charcuterie boasts more than 125 recipes and fully-illustrated instructions for making brined, smoked, cured, skewered, braised, rolled, tied, and stuffed meats at home, plus a primer on whole animal butchery.

Take your meat cooking to the next level: Start with a whole hog middle, stuff it with a piquant array of herbs and spices, then roll it, tie it, and roast it for a ridiculously succulent, gloriously porky take on porchetta called The Cuban. Or, brandy your own prunes at home to stuff a decadent, caul fatߝlined Duck Terrine. If it’s sausage you crave, follow Boetticher and Miller’s step-by-step instructions for grinding, casing, linking, looping, and smoking your own homemade Hot Links or Kolbász.

With its impeccably tested recipes and lush, full-color photography, this instructive and inspiring tome is destined to become the go-to reference on charcuterie—and a treasure for anyone fascinated by the art of cooking with and preserving meat.
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Specificații

ISBN-13: 9781607743439
ISBN-10: 1607743434
Pagini: 342
Ilustrații: 250 FULL-COLOR PHOTOS
Dimensiuni: 234 x 261 x 31 mm
Greutate: 1.6 kg
Editura: Ten Speed Press

Notă biografică

TAYLOR BOETTICHER and TOPONIA MILLER are the husband-and-wife team behind the Fatted Calf Charcuterie, which opened in 2003 and now has locations in Napa and San Francisco. The couple met at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, then worked for a stint as apprentices to legendary butcher Dario Cecchini (made famous by Bill Buford in his memoir Heat) in Tuscany before moving to the San Francisco Bay Area. They have been featured in The New York Times, Food & Wine, and Saveur, where the Fatted Calf was included in the editors’ annual list of their 100 favorite food items and trends. Visit www.fattedcalf.com.

Extras

INTRODUCTION: COME ON IN
 
WHEN YOU FIRST walk through the doors of the charcuterie, it feels as if you’ve entered an enchanted world of meaty wonders. The aroma of crispy-skinned pork roast fills the shop, inviting you to try a bite. Our cases are filled with pâtés, salumi, sausages, roasts, and terrines—and when the meat counter crew offers you a slice of the fennel-flecked sbriciolona and a piece of headcheese, it’s hard to say no. Walk back into our kitchen and you’ll smell spices toasting, bones roasting, and broths simmering. Someone is churning out coils of fresh sausage from the hand-cranked stuffer, and someone else is hanging huge, freshly-cased cotechino on hooks for fermentation. We’re hand-shredding a veritable vat of duck rillettes, seasoning it with freshly chopped thyme, then packing it into jars and sealing each with a creamy layer of duck fat. Bacon has just finished in the smoker! Go ahead and tear a hot piece off the end of the glistening slab. Peer into our curing room where row upon row of salami, guanciale, and pancetta hang quietly, patiently, enrobed in a delicate snowy bloom of mold.

Our book, In the Charcuterie, has something for everyone, whether you’re a skeptical ex-vegan, scimitar-wielding novice, or seasoned old pro. When you walk into a butcher’s shop and spy a pork shoulder in the case, we want you to see more than just a hunk of meat. We want you to see all of the possibilities that the pork shoulder has to offer—from shoulder chops and stuffed roasts to picnic hams and salami. We want you, knife in hand, to experience what it is like to break a whole animal into its parts. We want to share with you not only the knowledge of butchering and cooking we have accumulated through our work, but also the respect we have for the raw ingredients, the satisfaction we derive from working in the kitchen, and the pleasure of sitting at the table with friends and family to eat what you have created. We want people to better understand the processes of charcuterie by participating in it. So we invite you to slip into our greasy clogs for just a little while. In this book, we’ll ask you to plunge your hands into a freshly ground farce to make sausage, inhale the intense perfume of a spice blend, confidently carve a roast, and more. And at the end, you get to enjoy the delicious results of your labor and passion.

We cook a lot, not just in the charcuterie but at home as well. The methods and recipes in this book are based on our professional experience of working in a charcuterie for roughly a decade—but they are also written with the home cook in mind. Quite a few of the recipes and methods presented here are simple to master, and we hope that they’ll edge their way into your culinary repertoire with ease. Others are more challenging, multistepped processes that require several days or even weeks.

Charcuterie is a discipline that requires patience. Allowing plenty of time and space is the key to successful smoking, curing, and terrine- or sausage-making. The gratification is far from immediate, and may seem out-of-sync with our modern way of life. But we believe that there is a place for these meaty meditations: they can teach us truths about history, community, sustainability, and self-sufficiency. With In the Charcuterie, we want you to take the same pleasure from butchering, cooking, and preserving your meat as you do savoring it at the table.

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Carne Cruda

After a long transcontinental flight with missed connections and a jarring car ride from Nice, we finally arrived in adorable Alba too late for lunch. We found one tiny restaurant about to shut its doors for the afternoon that took pity on us. The kitchen was officially closed, but the staff fixed us a plate of carne cruda, a slightly intimidating heap of hand-cut raw beef drizzled with olive oil and accompanied with a lemon wedge. It was a love-at-first-bite moment, and to our surprise, we polished it off with gusto, then proceeded to eat our weight in various incarnations of carne cruda throughout Piedmont. Both well-trimmed sirloin and tenderloin, two cuts that are lean, flavorful, and tender, work well in this recipe. It is crucial to use fresh high-quality beef and to cut the meat by hand. To ensure a small, uniform dice, chill the beef thoroughly beforehand and use a sturdy, sharp chef’s knife. Crisp flatbreads, crostini, or halved hard-boiled eggs make excellent accompaniments. Serves 6 as an hors d’oeuvre or 4 as a first course
 
1 pound (450 g) lean beef sirloin or tenderloin, well chilled
1 teaspoon coarse sea salt (such as Maldon or fleur de sel)
1/4 teaspoon finely ground pepper
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
Juice of 1 lemon
1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Generous handful of arugula, cut into
narrow ribbons
1/3 cup (75 ml) extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for finishing
 
Trim any silver skin, gristle, or large pieces of fat from the exterior of the beef, then cut into 1/4-inch (6 mm) cubes. Place the beef in a bowl. Add the salt, pepper, garlic, lemon juice, parsley, and half of the arugula and fold them into the beef to mix evenly. Stir in the olive oil and taste for seasoning.

To serve, mound the beef mixture onto a large plate. Garnish with the remaining arugula and drizzle with olive oil.

Recenzii

“No one in America makes more diverse charcuterie, more consistently, using better product than the Fatted Calf. And no American has ever written a more comprehensive book on the subject—this is a must-read.”
—    Patrick Martins, founder of Slow Food USA and the Heritage Radio Network, president of Heritage Foods USA
 
“If you love chopping, grinding, salting, stuffing, and curing—or anything deliciously handmade—then this is the book for you! Taylor and Toponia show you how to make a wide array of meaty goods, from simple gingery duck legs to a hunter-style sausage.”
—    April Bloomfield, chef/owner of the Spotted Pig, the Breslin, and the John Dory Oyster Bar, and author of A Girl and Her Pig
 
“This book is incredibly well written. The charcuterie recipes are outstanding, and Taylor and Toponia’s clear instruction make the process less intimidating and more accessible. The other recipes are very inspired—their diverse flavors and preparations will take you on a great little culinary odyssey.”
—    Traci Des Jardins, chef/owner of Jardinière and Mijita Cocina
 
“With In the Charcuterie, Taylor and Toponia have created the New American cured meat manifesto. Like a plump, overstuffed sausage, this incredible piece of work—the product of years of experience and a lifetime of passion—is brimming with useable, accessible recipes that are fit for the home cook and the professional chef alike. This book sets the bar for neotraditional charcuterie makers.”
—    Matt Jennings, chef/owner of Farmstead

Cuprins

Introduction 
1 The Charcutier’s Pantry
Five Spice  
Herbes de Provence  
Preserved Meyer Lemons  
Dried Fruit in Brandy  
The Charcutier’s Wild Mushroom Duxelles  
Funghi Sott’olio 
 
2 Provisioning the Larder
Truffled Crema di Lardo  
Flaky Leaf Lard Biscuits  
Roasted Nettle Butter Chicken with Spring Vegetables  
Basic Rich Broth  
Basic Rich Roasted Broth  
Pork and Duck Noodle Soup Broth  
Crespelle and Chanterelle Mushrooms in Game Bird Broth  
Creamy Semolina with Roasted Chicken Broth, Greens, and Pecorino  
Sausage Confit  
Whole Duck Confit  
Classic Cassoulet  
 
3 In the Butcher Shop
Gingery Braised Duck Legs  
Chopped Chicken Liver Crostini  
Chicken-Fried Quail  
Rabbit Cacciatore  
Five-Spice Baby Back Ribs  
Chermoula-Marinated Pork Chops  
Pork Bollito Misto  
Fennel-Dusted Pork Shoulder Steaks  
Tonno di Maiale  
Pig Head Pozole  
Pickled Pork Tongues  
Lamb Rib Chops with Ras el Hanout  
Goat Shoulder Birria  
Peposo  
Rib Eye for Two  
Carne Cruda 
Rare Roast Beef  
 
4 Skewered, Rolled,Tied & Stuffed
Pork Brochettes with Herbes de Provence 
Harissa-Marinated Lamb Kebabs  
Marsha’s Grilled Rabbit Spiedini with Chicories, Olives, and Almonds  
Pancetta-Wrapped Pork Tenderloin  
Pork Country Rib with Sherry, Garlic, Thyme, and Pimentón  
Rabbit Porchetta  
Brasato al Midolo  
The Cuban  
Fig-and-Sausage Stuffed Quail  
Pork Shoulder Pot Roast Stuffed with Garlic, Greens, and Walnuts  
Wild MushroomߝStuffed Pork Rib Roast  
Duck Stuffed with Farro, Figs, and Hazelnuts  
 
5 Sausage, Salami & their Cousins
The Ugly Burger  
Duck and Lemongrass Sausage Patties  
Lamb and Herb Meatballs  
Oaxacan-Style Chorizo  
Bockwurst  
Blood Sausage with Caramelized Apples and Cognac  
Cotechino  
Belgian Beer Sausage  
Kolbász  
Hot Links  
Cacciatorini  
Saucisse Sec aux Herbes de Provence  
Pepperoni  
Sbriciolona  
 
6 Pâtés: Potted Meats, Terrines & Loaves
Rabbit Rillettes  
Ciccioli  
Oxtail Terrine  
Headcheese  
Meat Loaf  
Forager’s Terrine  
Spiced Lamb Terrine  
Duck Terrine with Brandied Prunes  
Veal and Chicken Galantine  
Cou Farci  
Duck Liver Mousse with Armagnac Cream  
Foie Gras Terrine with Madeira Gelée  
Foie Gras Torchon with Port and Quatre Épices  
 
7 Brined, Cured & Smoked
All-Purpose Poultry Brine  
Garlic Brine  
Cider-Brined Pork Porterhouse Chops  
Smoked Ham Hocks  
Braised Ham Hocks  
Picnic Ham  
Croque Monsieur 
Choucroute Garni  
Corned Beef Brisket  
Pancetta Arrotolata  
Bresaola  
Guanciale  
Brown SugarߝCured Bacon  
Pastrami  
Pulled Pork  
 
8 Accoutrements
Bread and Butter Pickles 
Classic Cucumber Dills  
Pickled Red Onion Rings  
Loulou’s Garden Sweet-and-Savory Fruits  
Marinated Olives  
Root Vegetable Chowchow  
Traditional Sauerkraut  
Cherry Mostarda  
Green Tomato Chutney  
Black Coffee and Bourbon Barbecue Sauce  
Chile Tomato Sauce 
Horseradish Salsa Verde  
Céleri Rémoulade  
Simple Beans  
Cowboy Beans 
Fagioli all’Uccelletto  
 
 
Butcher Shop Lingo  
Sources  
Acknowledgments 
Measurement Conversion Charts  
Index

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