The art of good living is carefully nurtured in Vienna, whose gracious people waltz through their existence on a diet of opera, winter balls and Sachertorte. Clichés apart, this delightful city has preserved the splendours of the Habsburg empire and memories of the artists who helped to shape the 20th century. This little guide is crammed with addresses -- priceless recommendations and practical hints, perfect for a weekend break or a fortnight's adventure.