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Textile Orientalisms: Cashmere and Paisley Shawls in British Literature and Culture de Suchitra Choudhury

Textile Orientalisms: Cashmere and Paisley Shawls in British Literature and Culture: Series in Victorian Studies

Autor Suchitra Choudhury
en Limba Engleză Hardback – 7 mar 2023

În cadrul programelor de studii victoriene și al cercetării postcoloniale, volumul Textile Orientalisms ocupă un loc distinct, fiind prima monografie care investighează rolul simbolic al șalurilor de Cashmere și Paisley în cultura britanică a secolului al XIX-lea. Observăm cum Suchitra Choudhury depășește simpla istorie a modei, propunând o analiză teoretică ce intersectează studiile literare cu cele imperiale. Autoarea urmărește parcursul acestor obiecte de la statutul de simboluri ale prestigiului aristocratic, aduse din subcontinentul indian, până la democratizarea lor prin producția industrială în Scoția, proces ce a generat metafore complexe despre autenticitate și imitație.

Remarcăm structura riguroasă a lucrării, care explorează modul în care scriitori precum Sir Walter Scott sau Wilkie Collins au utilizat aceste textile pentru a reflecta atât atracția față de exotic, cât și anxietățile expansiunii coloniale. Din punct de vedere metodologic, Textile Orientalisms extinde cadrul propus de The Empire Inside de Suzanne Daly, care se concentra pe obiectele dintr-o singură zonă geografică în cadrul ficțiunii, aducând date noi din arhive publicitare și surse non-literare. În timp ce Precious Threads and Precarious Lives de Amit Kumar analizează producția textilă din perspectiva socio-economică a regiunii Kashmir, lucrarea de față mută accentul pe consumul cultural și pe modul în care „orientalismul textil” a modelat identitatea domestică britanică. Găsim aici o demonstrație convingătoare a faptului că textilele nu au fost doar accesorii vestimentare, ci situri metaforice ale puterii imperiale.

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Specificații

ISBN-13: 9780821425008
ISBN-10: 0821425005
Pagini: 242
Ilustrații: 12
Dimensiuni: 152 x 229 x 20 mm
Greutate: 0.48 kg
Editura: Ohio University Press
Colecția Ohio University Press
Seria Series in Victorian Studies

De ce să citești această carte

Această carte este esențială pentru cercetătorii literaturii victoriene și ai istoriei culturale, oferind un instrument critic nou pentru înțelegerea relației dintre modă și colonialism. Cititorul va câștiga o perspectivă detaliată asupra modului în care obiectele cotidiene au fost încărcate cu semnificații politice, transformând o piesă de vestimentație într-un martor al expansiunii globale britanice.

Despre autor

Suchitra Choudhury este o cercetătoare specializată în literatura și cultura secolului al XIX-lea, cu un interes deosebit pentru studiile coloniale și istoria textilelor. Lucrarea sa de referință, publicată în Series in Victorian Studies, reflectă o expertiză interdisciplinară ce combină critica literară cu analiza materialelor de arhivă. Prin contribuțiile sale, Choudhury a redefinit modul în care obiectele de consum din perioada romantică și victoriană sunt interpretate în contextul relațiilor dintre Marea Britanie și India.

Descriere scurtă

The first major study of Cashmere and Paisley shawls in nineteenth-century British literature, this book shows how they came to represent both high fashion and the British Empire. During the late eighteenth century, Cashmere shawls from the Indian subcontinent began arriving in Britain. At first, these luxury goods were tokens of wealth and prestige. Subsequently, affordable copies known as “Paisley” shawls were mass-produced in British factories, most notably in the Scottish town of the same name. Textile Orientalisms is the first full-length study of these shawls in British literature of the extended nineteenth century. Attentive to the juxtaposition of objects and their descriptions, the book analyzes the British obsession with Indian shawls through a convergence of postcolonial, literary, and cultural theories. Surveying a wide range of materials—plays, poems, satires, novels, advertisements, and archival sources—Suchitra Choudhury argues that while Cashmere and Paisley shawls were popular accoutrements in Romantic and Victorian Britain, their significance was not limited to fashion. Instead, as visible symbols of British expansion, for many imaginative writers they emerged as metaphorical sites reflecting the pleasures and anxieties of the empire. Attentive to new theorizations of history, fashion, colonialism, and gender, the book offers innovative readings of works by Sir Walter Scott, Wilkie Collins, William Thackeray, Frederick Niven, and Elizabeth Inchbald. In determining a key status for shawls in nineteenth-century literature, Textile Orientalisms reformulates the place of fashion and textiles in imperial studies. The book’s distinction rests primarily on three accounts. First, in presenting an original and extended discussion of Cashmere and Paisley shawls, Choudhury offers a new way of interpreting the British Empire. Second, by tracing how shawls represented the social and imperial experience, she argues for an associative link between popular consumption and the domestic experience of colonialism on the one hand and a broader evocation of texts and textiles on the other. Finally, discussions about global objects during the Victorian period tend to overlook that imperial Britain not only imported goods but also produced their copies and imitations on an industrial scale. By identifying the corporeal tropes of authenticity and imitation that lay at the heart of nineteenth-century imaginative production, Choudhury’s work points to a new direction in critical studies.

Recenzii

“From diplomatic gift to fashion trend, literary trope to colonialism’s violent accessory, the cashmere shawl is the star of Textile Orientalisms. Expertly weaving historical and literary sources, Suchitra Choudhury spins a vibrant tale of this culturally rich textile, intertwining the object and its many soft powers with British Empire scholarship.”—Susan Hiner, author of Accessories to Modernity: Fashion and the Feminine in Nineteenth-Century France

“Suchitra Choudhury weaves together entangled histories and discovers that the humble shawl is in fact a powerful symbol of empire, trade, industry, class, gender, design, and fashion, as well as being a symbol of identity, authenticity, family, and belonging.”—Leonie Bell, director, Victoria and Albert Museum Dundee

“A magisterial exploration…. Suchitra Choudhury has dug deeply in the archives of British India to reveal the shawl’s multiple meanings as a desired fashion accessory and orientalist icon. Linking the fashion system to imperial governance, gender and class insurrection, her book demonstrates that despite its privileged place at the heart of British domesticity, the ‘old Cashmere shawl’ possessed an uncanny power to disturb and disrupt. An important, original, and long-awaited contribution to the literary study of British India.”—Nigel Leask, author of Stepping Westward: Writing the Highland Tour, c.1720-1830

"The definitive work on the subject of Cashmere and Paisley shawls in all of their intricate significances within eighteenth- and nineteenth-century English history and fiction.”—Deborah Denenholz Morse, Sara E. Nance Professor of English, College of William & Mary

“An original and arresting piece of scholarship…. With its broad range, it should find a wide readership among those interested in fashion and the novel, literary critics, and cultural and imperial historians alike.”—Kate Teltscher, author of India Inscribed: European and British Writing on India, 1600–1800

Notă biografică

Suchitra Choudhury is a research fellow supported by the William Lind Foundation at the University of Glasgow and an independent scholar. Her articles have appeared in Textile History and Victorian Literature and Culture. She is the cocurator of the display Paisley Shawls in Literature at Scotland’s Paisley Museum (2023).

Descriere

Considering popular literary images of Indian and Paisley shawls as markers of fashion, class, gender, and race during the long nineteenth century, this book shows how Indian imports and influences shaped wider discussions of British literature, art, politics, and empire.