How is Amtrak doing compared to the great passenger trains of yesteryear? All aboard for honest answers Rail from California to New York and back with critic-at-large Lionel Steel, whose candid account of the journey describes every twist and turn up the tracks - from unexpected delays and bizarre customer service episodes, to strange tales shared by strangers across dining car tables. Along the way, too, take a ride down memory lane - onto the Shasta Daylight and the California zephyr, among other heyday rail blazers. Get set for a fascinating overview, midway during the trip, of American passenger train history. And be prepared for a challenging critique of America's failure to embrace true high speed rail. Riding Amtrak is unlike any other train book you will ever read