The charm is eternal but Paris is on the move, changing graciously with the times. A glass pyramid reflects the Louvre in brilliant, luminous style, Place de la Concorde has been spruced up, and old districts have been revitalised. Thanks to the legendary Parisian elegance, the modern and the historic happily coexist in the city on the Seine, as romantic as ever. This little guide is crammed with addresses -- priceless recommendations and practical hints, perfect for a weekend break or a fortnight's adventure.