In 2002 I visited North Korea as a tourist. The week-long tour took me to the nation's capital of Pyongyang, into the countryside and to the heavily-fortified border with South Korea. This travelogue recounts my encounters and experiences and puts them into context with background on the history and politics of the Korean peninsula. A good read for those interested in North Korea, geo-politics, dark tourism or first-hand travel accounts. ""fascinating, and sometimes darkly hilarious"" -- Aidan Foster-Carter, Korea Consultant