A new and innovative series offering in-depth cultural, historical and literary guides to the great cities of the world. More than ordinary guidebooks, they introduce the visitor or armchair traveller to each city's unique present-day identity and its links with the past. Paul Buck explores this seven-hilled city with a particular emphasis on its literature and arts. Viewing the "white city" from angles high and low, from miradouros and alleyways, pursuing songs and saudade, he discovers the confidence of a cosmopolitan city full of the sounds and tastes of its former colonies. A city in a hurry to modernize, but one that can slow anybody to its relaxed pace.