This is supposed to be the best summer of Nicoletta Pagani's life-that is, until "la famiglia" partly forces, partly beckons her, to Italy. The single-most important presence in her Toronto home, "la famiglia" presides over Sunday mornings, the long distance calls that rejuvenate her father's soul, and the austere sepia portraits that follow her every move with a judging stare. Now, her father insists that she make the trip to find out "where she came from." Amid hostile confrontations and unspoken words, Nicoletta finds herself a stranger in the seemingly insignificant town of Portali, hidden in the pristine mountains of central Italy. She discovers the idiosyncrasies of Portali's residents: the twin bachelors who own the bakery (and are also murder suspects), the soccer-crazy priest of the only church, and the harpy who runs the only grocery store. But Nicoletta is even more surprised to learn that haunted homes, werewolves, and witches are as common as afternoon strolls. The young visitor from Canada sees her future revealed in tarot cards, falls victim to the "malocchio"-a curse laid upon an unaware and helpless target-and explores the eternal city of Rome. With her new Italian friends, Nicoletta is swept into the town's social pains and pleasures during one magical summer in Italy.