At the centre of Israel, the golden aura of Jerusalem's ageless mystery embraces the three great faiths of Judaism, Islam and Christianity. Out on the coast, in stark contrast, is the cheeky modernity of Tel Aviv, a cosmopolitan town vibrantly alive 24 hours a day. Add to this the magic of Negev and Judean deserts in the south, the orchards, vineyards and forests of Galilee in the north, and the gleaming beach resorts of Eilat and Netanya. This guide offers this potent mixture in a pocketful of vivid text and colour.