The colours and contrasts of Indonesia never cease to assail the senses. From shimmering green rice fields to smouldering grey volcanoes, from cities jammed with motorcycles to unexplored rainforests, there's as much variety and excitement in its 13,000 islands as in the rest of South-East Asia put together. This Way Indonesia packs in a pocketful the essential history, culture and natural wonders of this bewildering, bewitching archipelago.