The Hair Editor: Manuel Gamez-Garcia Part 3.3.1 An Overview of the Physical and Chemical Properties of Hair and their relation to Cosmetic Needs, Performance and Properties Manuel Gamez-Garcia 3.3.1.1 Introduction 3.3.1.2 Chemical composition of hair 3.3.1.3 Main types of hair cells 3.3.1.4 Cortical cells and their role in hair properties 3.3.1.4 Different types of cortical cells and hair shape 3.3.1.5 Cuticle cells and their role in hair properties 3.3.1.7 Melanin pigments in hair 3.3.1.8 Hair function 3.3.1.9 The follicle Part 3.3.3 Hair Aging: Fundamentals, Protection and Repair Padmaja Prem, Ph.D 3.3.3.1 Introduction 3.3.3.2 Structure, Composition, and Natural Color of Hair 3.3.3.3 Fundamentals and Signs of Aging Hair 3.3.3.4 Photo-Aging of Hair 3.3.3.5 Protection of Hair from Aging 3.3.3.6 Anti-Aging Hair Care Products Part 3.3.4 Mechanisms of Changes in Hair Shape Manuel Gamez-Garcia 3.3.4.1 Introduction 3.3.4.2 The shape memory properties of hair 3.3.4.3 Changes in hair shape by water-setting 3.3.4.4 Changes in hair shape by hot iron treatments 3.3.4.5 Physical processes taking place inside hair during hot ironing 3.3.4.6 Hair shape changes induced by permanent waving solutions 3.3.4.7 Hair shape changes induced by alkaline relaxers 3.3.4.8 Hair shape changes induced during grooming practices 3.3.4.9 Hair volume and changes in hair shape 3.3.4.10 Frizz in hair and changes in shape 3.3.4.11 Body in hair and changes in hair shape 3.3.4.12 Hair shape changes induced by styling polymers 3.3.4.13 Role of styling polymers in changing hair shape 6.10 Shampoos Ingredients, Formulation and Efficacy Evaluation Author: Carrie Shipley Section I: Typical Shampoo Ingredients Section II: Hair-Cleansing Mechanism Section IV: Future Trends in Shampoos Section III: Shampoo Evaluation 6.11 Hair Styling (Author Charles Warren) 6.12 Specialty Styling Products 6.13 Permanent Waving 6.14 Conditioners/Treatments 6.15 Hair Colorants and Protection Author: Padmaja Prem ¿6.15.1 Introduction 6.15.2 Fundamentals of Hair Coloring 6.15.3 Factors Influencing Color Fading and Color Removal 6.15.4 Color Protection 6.15.5 Color Vibrancy and Shine 6.15.6 Remedies for Color Protection, Vibrancy, and Shine 6.15.7 Ingredients and Products for Color-Treated Hair 6.16 Reactive Hair Care Products (Author Charles Warren) 6.17 Formula/Product Development from the Formulator's Viewpoint Part 11.4 A Survey of Test Methodology Used in Evaluating the Damage, Protection and Repair of Hair Authors: Ray Rigoletto, Tim Gillence 11.4.2 The nature of hair damage 11.4.3 Simulating damaging hair treatments for studying the alleviating effects of protective and repair ingredients 11.4.4 Instrumentation and experimental methods for studying damage and protection of hair 11.4.5 Color protection 11.4.6 Repair Techniques 11.4.7 Tests to study whole hair attributes from damaging effects and improvements with cosmetic treatments