Fashion Game Changers
Editat de Kaat Debo, Karen Van Godtsenhoven, Miren Arzalluzen Limba Engleză Paperback – 8 mar 2018
După parcurgerea acestui material, cititorul va putea identifica mecanismele prin care moda a încetat să mai fie o formă de constrângere a corpului, devenind un spațiu de explorare conceptuală și eliberare fizică. Remarcăm cum Fashion Game Changers reușește să traseze o istorie a inovațiilor radicale, pornind de la eforturile lui Madeleine Vionnet și Cristóbal Balenciaga de a demonta silueta tradițională a secolului al XX-lea. Credem că valoarea acestui volum rezidă în capacitatea sa de a explica tranziția de la hainele care „modelează” trupul la cele care îl „envelopă”, creând o autonomie vizuală nouă. Structura cărții este una riguroasă, alternând capitole teoretice semnate de experți de la muzeul MoMu din Anvers cu perspective intime. În timp ce primele secțiuni se concentrează pe viziunile iconoclaste ale lui Balenciaga, capitolele ulterioare explorează „poezia radicală” a designerilor japonezi și belgieni, precum Rei Kawakubo sau Martin Margiela. Merită menționat că volumul aduce o perspectivă proaspătă prin secțiunile „The Inside View”, unde purtători de modă avangardistă relatează cum aceste haine le-au influențat percepția de sine. Această lucrare completează excelent titlul 100 Ideas that Changed Fashion de Harriet Worsley. Dacă volumul lui Worsley oferă o privire panoramică și rapidă asupra momentelor cheie, Fashion Game Changers adaugă o profunzime analitică superioară, concentrându-se pe relația filozofică dintre corp și materialitate. În contextul operei editorilor, dacă lucrări anterioare precum Emerging Standards for Enhanced Publications and Repository Technology abordau tehnologia arhivelor digitale, acest volum aplică aceeași rigoare documentară asupra arhivelor de modă, transformând un catalog de expoziție într-un tratat de istorie culturală.
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Specificații
ISBN-10: 135006534X
Pagini: 292
Ilustrații: 200 colour illus
Dimensiuni: 210 x 280 x 16 mm
Greutate: 1.13 kg
Editura: Bloomsbury Publishing
Locul publicării:London, United Kingdom
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De ce să citești această carte
Recomandăm această carte studenților la design vestimentar și istoria artei care doresc să înțeleagă cum s-a născut avangarda modernă. Cititorul câștigă o înțelegere profundă a modului în care silueta a fost reinventată, beneficiind de analizele unor curatori de renume și de o iconografie bogată, esențială pentru oricine dorește să decodifice limbajul complex al modei contemporane și al designului conceptual.
Despre autor
Volumul este coordonat de un colectiv de experți de elită în domeniul curatatoriei de modă. Karen Van Godtsenhoven este curator de expoziții la prestigiosul muzeu MoMu din Anvers, aducând o expertiză vastă în prezentarea vizuală a vestimentației. Miren Arzalluz, istoric de modă și fost șef al colecțiilor la Fundația Cristóbal Balenciaga, este recunoscută pentru cercetările sale asupra tehnicilor de construcție vestimentară. Kaat Debo, în calitate de director al MoMu, completează echipa cu o viziune strategică asupra evoluției designului contemporan, transformând acest volum într-o referință academică și vizuală de neegalat.
Cuprins
1. Fashion Game Changers: Reinventing the 20th Century Silhouette - An IntroductionKaat Debo 2. Iconoclastic Visions of the Silhouette: Cristóbal BalenciagaMiren Arzalluz 3. Self-Taught and Experimental: A New Approach to the BodyKaren Van Godtsenhoven The Inside View - Karin Dillen on Wearing Maison Martin MargielaHettie Judah 4. Kindred Spirits: The Radical Poetry of Japanese and Belgian DesignersAnabela Becho The Inside View - Liliane Lijn on Wearing Issey MiyakeHettie Judah 5. The Discovery of Abstraction in Twentieth-Century FashionAkiko Fukai 6. Shadows of the BodyOlivier Saillard 7. Cultural Liberation Springing from Physical Liberation: Reception Study of the 1980s Avant-GardeHettie Judah The Inside View - Isolde Pringiers on Wearing Commes des GarçonsHettie Judah 8. More Game Changers: Louise Boulanger, André Courrèges, Pierre Cardin, Paco Rabanne, Georgina GodleyMiren Arzalluz, Karen Van Godtsenhoven and Alexandre Samson EndnotesBibliographyNotes on ContributorsPhoto CreditsIndexAcknowledgements
Recenzii
A great resource for those who are inspired by the experimental side of fashion.
[Images] bring each designer's work vividly to life, and make the book engaging for casual readers and academics alike ... An invaluable visual record of a group of designers, spread across decades and continents, who embody a new way of dressing the female form. In exploring designers who seek formal perfection over body modification, and who place the wearer at the centre of their practice, the book also stands as a record of women's place in the world at this point in history.
This book is a tribute to those designers who radically transformed the female silhouette in the 20th century and created alternatives to the hour-glass silhouette that had dominated women's fashion for centuries.
Fashion Game Changers is the kind of book I relish: both academic and captivating in its observations. It contextualises fashion and its designers, and illustrates just how significant clothing has been in documenting social history.
Fashion Game Changers is an innovative and important book with extraordinary images and intelligent essays devoted to the designers who have radically transformed fashion's relationship with the body.
Fashion Game Changers is a fascinating and intelligent take on the designers of the mid 20th century, whose experiments with form and shape have changed attitudes towards the female body and femininity itself.
Before designers like Coco Chanel and Madeleine Vionnet, hourglass silhouettes dominated Western fashion, constricting waists and restricting women's movements. That started to change in the 20th century with innovations ranging from Chanel's gamine jackets to Cristóbal Balenciaga's cascading dresses. The book Fashion Game Changers, out April 21 from Bloomsbury Visual Arts, traces the evolution of fashion designers creating freer, looser-fitting forms. With these radical, avant-garde designs, women were finally able to breathe.
The writing is as exhilarating as the photographs . Especially interesting are short pieces called "The Insider View," in which individuals give a personal testimony to what it means to wear clothes from Comme des Garçons, Martin Margiela and Miyake, not for a few fleeting catwalk minutes, but in real life. I simply cannot praise this accessible, enlightening book highly enough.
The writing is as exhilarating as the photographs . Especially interesting are short pieces called "The Insider View," in which individuals give a personal testimony to what it means to wear clothes from Comme des Garçons, Martin Margiela and Miyake, not for a few fleeting catwalk minutes, but in real life. I simply cannot praise this accessible, enlightening book highly enough.
Caracteristici
Notă biografică
Karen Van Godtsenhoven is Exhibitions Curator at MoMu fashion museum in Antwerp, Belgium.Miren Arzalluz is a fashion historian, freelance fashion curator and former head of collections at the Cristóbal Balenciaga Foundation. Kaat Debo is Director of MoMu fashion museum in Antwerp, Belgium.
Descriere scurtă
Fashion Game Changers traces radical innovations in Western fashion design from the beginning of the 20th century to the present.Challenging the traditional silhouettes of their day, fashion designers such as Madeleine Vionnet and Cristóbal Balenciaga began to liberate the female body from the close-fitting hourglass forms which dominated European and American fashion, instead enveloping bodies in more autonomous garments which often took inspiration from beyond the West. As the century progressed, new generations of avant-garde designers from Rei Kawakubo to Martin Margiela further developed the ideas instigated by their predecessors to defy established notions of femininity in dress, creating space between body and garment. This way, a new relationship between body and dress emerged for the 21st century.With over 200 images and commentaries from an international range of leading fashion curators and historians, this beautifully illustrated book showcases some of the most revolutionary silhouettes and innovative designs of over 100 years of fashion.