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Couture Sewing Techniques: Cărți Haute Couture

Autor Claire B Shaeffer
Notă:  5.00 · o notă 
en Limba Engleză Paperback – 24 mai 2011

Odată cu schimbarea sezoanelor, dorința de a purta piese vestimentare care nu doar arată impecabil, ci sunt construite să reziste o viață, devine o prioritate pentru orice pasionat de modă. Couture Sewing Techniques nu este doar un manual de croitorie, ci o invitație în universul exclusivist al haute couture-ului, unde rigoarea întâlnește arta. Remarcăm modul în care Claire B Shaeffer reușește să demistifice un domeniu adesea considerat inaccesibil, transformând tehnici complexe de atelier în pași logici și realizabili. Ca și The Art of Couture Sewing de Zoya Nudelman, această lucrare pune accent pe precizia tehnicilor personalizate, dar se diferențiază prin stilul analitic al unui istoric al modei care explică nu doar „cum”, ci și „de ce” se folosește o anumită metodă. Volumul este structurat cu o claritate didactică: prima parte ne introduce în arta cusutului manual, modelarea siluetei și finisaje de margini, în timp ce a doua parte demonstrează aplicarea acestora pe fuste, jachete, paltoane și rochii de seară. Această ediție actualizată de TAUNTON PRESS aduce un plus de valoare prin cele 200 de fotografii detaliate și capitolul dedicat materialelor pretențioase, oferind o experiență de învățare vizuală completă. Tonul este unul practic și încurajator, demonstrând că perfecțiunea unui tiv sau structura unei mâneci nu sunt secrete rezervate doar marilor case pariziene, ci competențe ce pot fi stăpânite prin exercițiu și ghidare corectă. Este, fără îndoială, un curs complet de haute couture comprimat în paginile unei cărți esențiale.

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Specificații

ISBN-13: 9781600853357
ISBN-10: 1600853358
Pagini: 256
Ilustrații: full colour throughout, 275 illustrations, 200 photographs
Dimensiuni: 202 x 253 x 16 mm
Greutate: 0.7 kg
Ediția:Revised, Updated edition
Editura: TAUNTON PRESS
Seria Cărți Haute Couture


De ce să citești această carte

Recomandăm această carte oricărui pasionat de design vestimentar care dorește să treacă de la simpla confecționare la arta construcției vestimentare. Veți câștiga rigoarea necesară pentru a crea haine cu o potrivire perfectă și finisaje de lux. Este un instrument indispensabil pentru a transforma un hobby într-o măiestrie tehnică, oferind soluții concrete pentru cele mai dificile detalii de croitorie.


Despre autor

Claire B Shaeffer este un istoric al modei de renume internațional, colecționar și expert în tehnicile de construcție haute couture. Cu o carieră dedicată studiului pieselor vestimentare de muzeu și colaborării cu ateliere de prestigiu, ea a devenit una dintre cele mai respectate voci în educația de modă. Expertiza sa este reflectată în numeroasele titluri din seria Cărți Haute Couture, unde reușește să păstreze vii tradițiile croitoriei de lux, adaptându-le pentru creatorii contemporani.


Cuprins

Part One
Inside the World of Haute Couture
The Art of Hand Sewing
Shaping the Garment: Seams, Darts, and Pressing Techniques
Edge Finishes: Hems, Facings, and Bindings
Closures
Part Two

Applying Couture Techniques
Skirts & Pants
Blouses & Dresses
Sleeves
Pockets
Jackets & Coats
Designing with Fabric
Special Occasions
Selected Glossary of Terms
Metric Conversion Chart
Bibliography
Resources
Index

Recenzii

With clarity and a profound respect for technique and application, Claire Shaeffer brings one into an haute-couture atelier, where the realm of possibility has no boundaries. She imparts the secrets of hand-work that allow a garment to become weightless, a wisp of dimension for the wearer.   She pays homage to the gods of the craft and bows to the church of haute couture. --Ralph Rucci, designer
As every Vogue Patterns reader knows, Claire Shaeffer can unravel couture garment construction better than anyone, and her revised and updated version of Couture Sewing Techniques is the authoritative guide to haute couture techniques In it, Shaeffer demystifies designer garments and gives you the confidence to try the techniques and practiced in the ateliers of the haute couture. A must-have for all serious sewers. ߝVogue Patterns

Notă biografică

Claire Shaeffer is an acclaimed couture designer and recognized expert in the history of fashion. She gives twice-yearly workshops to select few, and has published many books on the topic of couture techniques including the first edition of Couture Sewing Techniques, which has sold more than 80,000 copies.

Extras

After the original Couture Sewing Techniques was published, I visited the workrooms of James Galanos shortly before he retired. He insisted initially that he was not a couturier since most of designs were sold in stores. I disagree; the standards which he set were of the highest quality so I have included him in this edition. More recently, I visited the workrooms of Chado Ralph Rucci—the only American invited to show his designs with the couture collections in Paris. He is a master of the art and the craft of haute couture.
Shortly before I began the revision, I had the opportunity to work with Phyllis Magidson, the curator at the Museum of the City of New York, on a project that focused on Mainbocher and Charles Frederick Worth. This research expanded my knowledge of techniques used in the first hundred years of haute couture while reminding me that many techniques which I had written about earlier had changed little, if at all. This edition includes several photographs from that project.
 
Many of the photographs in the first edition were no longer available so I’ve selected many new ones from the Chicago History Museum, The Ohio State University, Phoenix Art Museum, and Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising as well as from the Fashion Institute of Technology and Metropolitan Museum of Art. I’ve also included photographs of many garments in my personal collection.
 
No matter what your sewing expertise, this book will expand your horizons. Most importantly, it is a practical guide for learning the craft of haute couture, but it will also provide new ideas for applying the techniques which you already know. Some techniques are less suitable for beginners and some are impractical for everyday sewing; but most will be of value to the average home-sewer and can be used on a wide range of garments and fabrics. I hope you’ll experiment with the techniques and look for new ways to apply them when you sew.
 
Like most of you, I have a limited amount of time to sew and cannot make all garments a la couture. For some garments, I mix couture methods with ready-to-wear and traditional home-sewing techniques to achieve the results I want. I encourage you to do the same. Use this book as a resource, whether you limit your couture sewing to a detail here and there or decide to make an entire garment from beginning to end with couture techniques.
 
I find sewing by hand and with couture techniques extremely rewarding. The pleasure of both making and wearing beautifully constructed garments far exceeds the time and effort required to complete them. I hope this book will help you develop the same skills and perfect old ones, and in turn, reward you with years of pleasure—and a closet full of beautifully made garments. ߝClaire Sheaffer

Descriere

The world of haute couture is a place where only a privileged few can ever hope to reside, right? Wrong. Fashion historian Claire B. Shaeffer opened the door to this exclusive realm in her authoritative guide to the techniques that define couture sewing. And now, the industry bible, Couture Sewing Techniques, has been revised and updated throughout — with new photos and a chapter on specialty fabrics. No one can unravel couture garment construction the way Schaeffer can, from the art of hand sewing to mastering edge finishes, from classic closures to shaping a garment for a perfect fit. Readers learn all the basics — and more importantly: how to apply the techniques — on skirts and sleeves, pockets and jackets, evening gowns, and more. Gorgeous photos, clear illustrations, and concise language combine to make this the most complete couture-sewing course available.