Berlin is well and truly back. Unique among German cities, this mercurial and often eccentric metropolis stands at the crossroads between western and eastern Europe. It vibrates with life, wit, drama and great music. Mushrooming everywhere are new cafes, night-clubs, luxury boutiques and art galleries. From the skyscrapers of Potsdamer Platz to the palaces of Potsdam, from Unter den Linden to refurbished Friedrichstrasse, this guide explores the avenues and neighbourhoods of Germany's cosmopolitan capital.