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Fashion Crimes: Dressing for Deviance

Editat de Joanne Turney
en Limba Engleză Hardback – 25 iul 2019
Fashion is widely recognised as a site for social acceptance and rejection, and as a signifier of personal identity. What happens when people stray from 'appropriate' dress codes or associate garments with 'respectability' or deviance? How does fashion relate to criminality? In this interdisciplinary volume, leading scholars propose new ways of seeing everyday dress and the body in public space. Garments and individual or group wearers are used as case studies to explore the codification of clothing as criminal - hoodies, trench-coats, Norwegian Lustkoffe sweaters, low-slung trousers and Hip Hop styling are all untangled as garments with criminal significance. The book questions the point at which morality as a form of social control meets criminality, and suggests ways to renegotiate established dress codes and terms such as 'suitability' and 'glamour' through the study of what people wear in response to notions of criminality.
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Specificații

ISBN-13: 9781780766980
ISBN-10: 178076698X
Pagini: 256
Ilustrații: 27 b&w illus
Dimensiuni: 156 x 234 x 25 mm
Greutate: 0.68 kg
Editura: Bloomsbury Publishing
Colecția Bloomsbury Visual Arts
Locul publicării:London, United Kingdom

Caracteristici

Contains new research on street style from trench coats to hoodies to hip hop

Notă biografică

Joanne Turney is Associate Professor at Winchester School of Art, University of Southampton. She is the author of The Culture of Knitting (2009).

Cuprins

List of IllustrationsAcknowledgementsIntroductionJoanne Turney1 White Lies and the Tailoring of EvilJonathan Faiers2 The Horror of the Hoodie: Clothing the CriminalJoanne Turney3 The Criminalisation of the Saggy PantHolly Price Alford4 Mug Shot/Head Shot: Danger, Beauty and the Temporal Politics of Booking PhotographyStephanie Sadre-Orafai5 Kogyaru and Pleasure of Dressing as a 'Delinquent Girl' (furyo shojo)Sharon Kinsella6 There's no B'ness like 'Ho' B'ness (50 Cent, PIMP): Deconstructing the Hip-Hop 'Ho'Alex Franklin7 Fear and Clothing in Adidas: Branded Sportswear and Fashioning the 'Handy Dandy'Joanne Turney8 Crime and Fashion in the 1950s and 1960s in Socialist HungaryKatalin Medvedev9 Queer Materiality: An Empirical Study of Gender Subversive Styles in Contemporary StockholmPhilip Warkander10 Material Evidence: Sexual Assault, Provocative Clothing and Fashion Joanne Turney11 Skulls and Crossbones: America's Confederacy of PiratesAnne Cecil12 A 'Louse' in Court: Norwegian Knitted Sweaters on Big-Time CriminalsIngun Grimstad Klepp13 Out of the Trenches and into Vogue: Un-belting the Trench CoatMarilyn Cohen14 From Revolting to Revolting: Masculinity, the Politics and Body Politic of the TracksuitJoanne TurneyContributorsIndex

Recenzii

The collection of essays in this book offers an insightful look at the unspoken sartorial coding featured in society ... While there is other published research on symbolism of clothing and limitations imposed, such as sumptuary laws, this book is unique in that it demonstrates sociocultural and political consequences of clothing in contemporary society.
[Fashion Crimes] offers intriguing and well-considered takes on dress and criminality, discussions that scholars in the field should find worthwhile. Summing Up: Recommended.
This original and ground-breaking book skilfully unpicks the links between crime and clothing. It is a must-read for anyone interested in how the state legislates what we wear, how the media "sensationalises" specific styles, and how wearers deemed deviant express themselves through clothing.
Capturing the scandalous ways sartorial practices connect to criminal activities, Fashion Crimes is a thought-provoking exploration of socio-cultural and political meanings entangled with dress and deviancy.
In this truly unique volume, diverse essays challenge established methodologies of dress studies and move the subject area forward. This is an original contribution to a fascinating area of study.
Well-structured ... interesting for anyone using clothes as an expression of ideals in a world that becomes increasingly tokenistic and tribal and where the way you look has a tangible impact on societal behaviours and become a means of performative communication.