Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear: A Construction Guide (Design vestimentar pentru bărbați)De (autor) Roberto Cabrera, Denis Antoine
en Limba Engleză Paperback – 14 May 2015
Since its first publication, Classic Tailoring Techniques for Menswear has been the authoritative resource for custom hand tailoring production. This new edition focuses on updating these timeless construction techniques through extensive use of all new photography and digital illustrations to enhance the clarity of each process. The enduring art of tailoring and the nature of bespoke tailoring processes means that the techniques presented in the first edition remain as relevant for today's designers as ever. The new edition is updated with information on measuring, alternative approached in use today and 748 all new photographs and illustrations. It also includes a brief overview of contemporary tailoring and the identifying key components of luxury tailoring from Britain, Italy and the Unites States. This introduction also familiarizes the reader with ways in which traditional production methods have been used in the development of luxury ready-to-wear men's tailoring.The text is ideal for students with basic design, patternmaking and sewing skills of at least an intermediate level for courses including Tailoring Techniques, Menswear Design, Couture Sewing, Intermediate or Advanced Construction Techniques, Costume Construction and Fashion Design Studios.Instructor's Guide available.
Roberto Cabrera was an instructor at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City, USA.Denis Antoine is a leading practitioner and educator in the field of men's tailoring, currently teaching menswear design and construction at the Savannah College of Art and Design, USA. Following degrees in menswear from the London College of Fashion and the Royal College of Art, he established his eponymous bespoke tailoring business.
PrefaceChapter 1: TailoringChapter 2: The PatternChapter 3: The FitChapter 4: Fabric Chapter 5: Layout/CuttingChapter 6: The JacketChapter 7: The PantsChapter 8: The VestChapter 9: AlterationsAppendix A: Pattern BlocksBack Pocket Piping Slant YokeSide & Slant Pocket FacingBack Pocket FacingFrench TabFrench FlyShoulder PadAppendix B: Tailoring Supply Sources Glossary BibliographyIndex
I believe this book is the authority in classic men's tailoring. It really is the go-to book for many home sewers or instructors who want to give the most accurate methods for hand tailoring.
[Classic Tailoring Techniques] is one of a number of leading texts for men's tailoring.
The [new] author clearly has a great depth of understanding about the learning process and how organically it must occur.
I am a traditional "purist" tailor teaching more modern students, and I agree with [the plan] to try to infuse custom techniques into a variety of designs and market levels. The fact is that most students are more interested in infusing RTW processes into bespoke production, and I want to give them good answers and guidance hence my wholehearted support of the addition of fusible and machine techniques.
I absolutely believe that Cabrera's book is the ultimate in the fine details of men's tailoring. . . I like the proposed revision. I absolutely believe focusing on the fine techniques and making them easier to understand rather than simplifying the whole process is a much better approach. . . I believe the proposed increase in photos that clarify the process will fill in the gaps. Not everything can be clearly understood by words alone and the photos help a lot.
Clearly laid out and the inclusion of additional illustrations makes this text book easy to follow for the students. It allows the reader to experiment with different techniques in the book to achieve a classical tailored jacket.